Why this happens
In most refrigerators there is one cooling coil, the evaporator, behind the freezer wall. A fan blows cold air from there into the freezer and through a duct or damper into the fresh food side. If the freezer is cold, the sealed system is usually working. The cold air is just not reaching the fridge.
The most common causes
- Defrost failure. The evaporator ices over and blocks the air path. Signs: frost on the freezer back wall, the problem slowly returns after you unplug and thaw the fridge. The defrost heater, thermostat, sensor or control is at fault.
- Evaporator fan stopped. No fan noise when you open the freezer and press the door switch. Ice can freeze the blade, or the motor fails.
- Damper stuck closed. The door between freezer and fridge doesn't open, so no cold air flows in.
- Dirty condenser coils or a stopped condenser fan. The fridge runs hot and struggles to keep both sides cold.
- Door gasket or overloaded shelves. Warm air leaks in, or food blocks the air vents inside the fridge.
What you can check yourself
- Make sure nothing blocks the vents on the back wall of the fridge compartment.
- Listen in the freezer for the fan. Press the door switch with the door open.
- Look at the freezer back wall. Heavy frost means a defrost problem.
- Clean the condenser coils: under the front kick plate or on the back, depending on the model.
- Close a dollar bill in the door. If it slides out easily, the gasket isn't sealing.
A manual defrost (unplug, doors open, 24 hours, towels on the floor) can get you a few days of cooling. If the problem comes back, the defrost system needs repair.
When to call a technician
Call if the fridge is above 40°F, if the frost returns after a manual defrost, or if the fan doesn't run. We test the defrost heater, sensors, fans and board, then give you the price before any work starts.
More on refrigerator repair, including error codes by brand.